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Fermentation: Spring Wines

Rodolfo Neirotti

Issue date: 4/20/06 Section: Entertainment
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It's that time of year again. Even though it's still mostly overcast and cool, people-almost like lizards-feel compelled to head outdoors, poorly dressed, for that dreaded institution known as a Barbeque. The food is most always mediocre, the beverages are disastrous and the company usually disappointing.

Not surprisingly, the questions have already started. "What wine goes well with 'BBQ'?" "It's warm out-should I still bring a red?" "We're charring nearly every animal known to man; is there some wine that everyone will like?"

Look people-good wine is a sophisticated beverage, and 'BBQ' is at best a pedestrian enterprise. You are likely standing, inhaling smoke, perspiring and eating such offensive foodstuffs as "steak sauce," and you want to drink "good wine?" Unless you are willing to make some changes in your al fresco dining, I suggest club soda with a lime to cut through the grease.

Some of you more trendy people may claim that you are having a picnic instead. You are proud of yourself since you sort of think you've discovered basil, mozzarella, olive oil, fruits, nuts, prosciutto, etc., which people in the Mediterranean have been eating for centuries and paying prices far below the highway robbery that occurs at Whole Foods.

The bottom line is you are still eating outside from flimsy plates and plastic cups with dust and grass clippings sprinkling your "gourmet fare." My advice is that you eat inside at a table with cutlery, and then have your leisure time outdoors. However, despite my sensible advice, I cannot change plebeian tastes, so here are some oenological suggestions.

If it is really warm-which I doubt given that Spring just started-do not make people drink heavy and bold reds. Rather pour lighter, crisp and well chilled whites. Remaining budget conscious as always, try New Zealand or South African Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc (these are grape varietals, my worldly colleagues).

These will go nicely with poultry and seafood as well, that is, if you are kind enough to your food and palate to avoid some unsavoury 'BBQ' sauce or marinade. If you still want to drink red, Pinot Noir and Gamay are lighter and softer reds which are easily paired, especially when slightly chilled. New Zealand and Central Europe are making good values in this realm.
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